Sun. May 22nd, 2022
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Installing a Toilet is Easier Than You Think, Installing your own toilet might seem intimidating at first, but it’s really quite simple once you get the hang of it. Once you’ve mastered this basic task, you can take on bigger projects and add value to your home! Read on to find out how easy it is to install your own toilet—and impress your friends and family with your DIY skills!

Installing a Toilet is Easier Than You Think
Installing a Toilet is Easier Than You Think

Stop Flushing Money Down The Toilet

There is a queen or king in every family. A throne is required when royalty is present. The toilet is the only spot in your house that shouts throne like your porcelain seat of authority. It often not only exudes your eminence, but it is also the sole area where you may have some alone time. Both of these factors have elevated the toilet to a high position among home fittings. Try not to utilize this seat for a day if you need to be reminded of its importance.

Unfortunately, owing to the quantity of water required, even the most powerful of thrones wears out, becomes outmoded, out of style, or is ecologically unfriendly. Whatever the cause, you will almost certainly need to replace your toilet at some point in your life. While pictures of overflowing sewage may conjure up visions of a difficult chore, it is really one of the most straightforward plumbing projects you can do. A toilet replacement may cost well over $300, and even more in extreme cases. For a little over $100, you can have a whole new, shining toilet by doing it yourself.

The cost of a DIY installation is mostly determined by the kind of new toilet you choose. The cheapest is roughly $100 at the big box retailers. Some are about $500 but believe me, you aren’t that important, so purchase the cheapest one. It flushes perfectly.

After you’ve chosen your new toilet and hauled it home (it’s usually a good idea to have some assistance), it’s time to get to work and put it to use. This is how.

Required Equipment:

  • Wrench with adjustability (also known as a crescent wrench)
  • Screwdrivers with flathead and Philips’s heads
  • Knife for putty
  • Caulk with silicone
  • Hammer
  • Shims for toilets

1. Put the New Toilet on Display

Place the new toilet near the bathroom and unbox it before thinking about installing it. Ensure that all of the components are present and in excellent working order. Because toilets are mostly constructed of porcelain, buying a new one that is broken is not impossible. Also, make sure you have all of the necessary equipment, as well as a wax ring. If you choose a toilet that is broken, discover you don’t have the necessary equipment, or didn’t notice it didn’t come with a wax ring, and it is late in the day, you may find yourself without a toilet for the night. Ask anybody in your family how horrible this would be.

2. Remove the Old Toilet

Toilets are even easier to remove than they are to replace. Near the end of the pipe that connects to the bottom of the tank, each toilet should have its own shut-off valve. Valves do become worse, so turn it off and test it. Flush the toilet and make sure it is not refilling with water after it has completed flushing. Flush it once more until you’ve gotten the most water out of the tank possible. Remove the hose end from the tank by unscrewing it and pulling it out. Keep a towel below it to collect any remaining water in the tank’s bottom.

Place some towels around the toilet and drain the bowl completely with a cup and/or sponge. You’ll never get everything out, but you can get the most out of it. Keep the tank cover separate to avoid splintering if it falls off. Remove the covers that cover the screws at the toilet’s base; one is on each side. Remove the nut from behind the cap. Either a wingnut or a regular nut. These nuts and screws are often rusted on and will not move, which is a regular issue. Prepare to chop them off with a hacksaw if necessary.

After removing the nuts, jiggle the toilet from side to side to break the wax ring seal. Once the toilet is free to move about. Lift the toilet straight up with assistance (you can do it alone, but it’s not suggested). It should come out easily, but it will be somewhat heavy. Clean up any spilled water and move the toilet to the basement or outdoors. If it still works, you may put it on Craig’s List as “free” and someone will take it.

3. Prepare the Flange for a New Toilet

What’s that scent? The pipe that is now visible on the floor feeds straight to the sewage system. Nothing will stop the odor, so if it is too strong, put a towel in it. Gobs of unpleasant wax are all over the flange and on the floor. This is the wax ring seal’s remains. Remove as much as you can using a putty knife and a flathead screwdriver. It has to be gone 90% of the time.

To guarantee proper placement, mark the floor with a marker. Otherwise, your new toilet will be misaligned. Install a bead of silicone caulking over the top edge of a new flange to guarantee a watertight seal.

You may need to use flange spacers if you change the flange

To lift the toilet, attach these plastic rings between the flange and the toilet. If the new or existing flange is not high enough to be level with the floor, this may be required. This is common when a new tile is introduced. You risk not having a sufficient seal with the wax ring if the flange is not level with the floor, which might lead to leaks. You’ll probably need some longer flange bolts if you need to add spacers. These are the bolts that are installed with the threads facing up on the flange. The bolts fit in the holes on either side of the toilet’s base, and the nuts fasten it to the floor. The bolts will not be long enough to install the nuts if you use enough spacers. Before the neighborhood hardware shop shuts, figure it out.

Install the replacement bolts after the flange is clean and ready

They’re put in backward, with the head on the bottom and the threads facing up. Slide the bolt’s head into the slot on the flange’s big end. Move the bolt along with the slot until the head is in the smaller section and won’t come out when you raise it. There is a little nut that will keep the bolt in place once it is in the same spot as your previous bolts. It’s not necessary to overtighten this nut. Its only purpose is to prevent the bolt from moving. Rep on the other side.

4. Prepare the New Toilet for Setup

Unbox the toilet as carefully as possible. Place the tank and lid to the side until you’re ready to use them. Make a components inventory. If your new toilet did not arrive with a new wax ring (which most do), get one first. Turn the toilet over and place it on the floor, the bottom up. Place the wax ring on top. There’s a fine line between delicately pushing the wax ring into its hole and pressing it so firmly that it deforms.

5. Prepare the Bathroom

While one person can execute this, it goes much more smoothly with two. Lift the toilet up and place it on the flange, holding it by the bowl’s edges. Additionally, when lowering the toilet, make sure the wax ring does not slide off. Even if you lift it alone, having a second person to assist in precise positioning makes this portion much simpler.

While gently swaying the toilet back and forth, press downward. The wax ring will make a better seal, and the toilet will fall to the proper height as a result of this action.

6. Tighten the flange bolts and make sure the toilet is level

Place standard nuts or wingnuts on the flange bolts, depending on the toilet brand you bought, and torque until snug. Check the level of the bowl. To level, the toilet, use toilet shims. Tighten the flange bolts until they are snug, alternating sides. Once one side is tight, the other will be loose until both sides are uniformly snug on the flange. Check for level again, and if necessary, tap in the toilet shims.

7. Get the Tank Ready for Installation

Two bolts secure the toilet tank to the rear of the toilet. Each bolt goes through a hole in the tank’s bottom. After it is full, a rubber gasket/washer will prevent water from seeping through. After inserting the bolt through the bottom of the tank, secure the bolts using the provided nut on the other side.

Place the huge rubber/foam gasket on the exterior of the tank over the large pipe in the center. When placed upside down, it should be able to remain in place without slipping off.

8. Setup the Tank

Place the tank against the back of the toilet. Slowly lower yourself. There are three objectives to achieve. The huge rubber/foam gasket in the tank’s middle must be flush with the toilet’s large opening in the rear.

Place a washer on one of the bolts on the bottom of the tank that is now protruding through the holes on the rear of the toilet, using the included wingnuts and washers. With one hand, hold the washer in place while tightening the wingnut with the other. Rep with the second bolt. Tighten alternate bolts until they are snug. The wingnut will loosen when the rubber/foam gasket in the middle compresses. Continue until both sides are tight and remain snug. If you overtighten, the porcelain tank may fracture. You won’t be able to see the wingnuts while you tighten them since they’re on the bottom of the tank at the rear of the toilet. This phase may require you to channel your inner contortionist.

9. Include a mechanism for filling the tank.

Float valves fill the toilet tank to the right level in a variety of ways. Get one with a flush button on top of the tank as a favor to yourself. To conserve water, it includes a big and small flush option. Simply insert the flush mechanism into the hole on the top of the tank lid, turn it over, and fasten the lid after sliding the big plastic nut over the flushing rods.

10. Connect the water line

It’s usually a good idea to replace the water supply line when changing a toilet. If the old one breaks down, as they all do eventually, you’re in for some expensive repairs. It’s also a good idea to replace the shutoff valve while you’re at it.

Connect the plastic connector at the water supply line’s end to the plastic threaded connection on the tank’s bottom. Screw on until it’s secure. Avoid overtightening.

11. Examine for Leaks

Check for level one final time, tighten every screw one last time, then grab a towel and get ready to test. Fill the tank by turning on the water supply line. On the interior of the tank, there should be a fill line. Adjust the float to the right fill height if the water level is too low or too high.

Give it a manual flush from within the tank after it’s full and there are no leaks at the water supply line or from the bottom. Keep an eye out for leaks at the toilet’s base. If it leaks, the problem is most likely a failed wax ring seal.

Place the cover on the tank and repeat multiple times if there are no leaks.

12. Put the Seat in Place

I wish I could tell you that all toilet seats remain tight and in place indefinitely, but they are really cheap plastic items that break down soon. Get comfortable with this technique. An attached cover will click into place over each opening. Place one of the provided plastic washers in the square/rectangular aperture and thread the big plastic bolts through the washer and the hole at the bottom.

A rubber bottom component that matches the square/rectangular aperture slips over the bolt and snaps into place on the hinge’s bottom. Place the seat on the toilet, making that the two plastic bolts go through the toilet’s remaining two holes. To fasten the seat to the toilet, use the plastic nuts that come with it. Avoid overtightening.

13. Take the Big Exam

Take a roll of toilet paper, request some solitude, and start to work. You’re done if it passes that test.

Own a Plumbing Company

There are occasions when I strongly advise hiring a professional plumber. One of them is replacing a toilet. Doing basic tasks and charging a premium is many tradesmen’s bread and butter. Which would you like to do: get your hands filthy or write a large hefty check?

By admin

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