Get Rid of That Heavy Wall Texture In 10 Steps, You thought you were done with that ugly, dated, and cracked wall texture, but then you found out it wasn’t as easy to remove as you had hoped. In fact, now you have a gaping hole in your wall that needs to be covered up before your guests arrive! What are you going to do? Don’t worry – the solution isn’t nearly as difficult as you might think! Follow these 10 steps to learn how to remove and cover heavy wall texture like a pro in no time at all!
Around 1958 Those Walls Are Fantastic!
Some trends come and go, and staying current may be difficult. A wardrobe is an excellent example of something that is simple to change. Others, such as replacing that avocado-colored refrigerator in your kitchen, maybe more expensive; however, some things need a lot of work.
Certain house ideas that were fashionable at the time are now considered outdated and might be downright unattractive. Believe it or not, paneling was once all the rage. However, removing paneling pales in contrast to the effort required to eliminate one of the most perplexing house fashions in history: extensive wall texturing.
Texturing offers advantages. It’s excellent at dispersing sound and… well, that’s pretty much all it’s good for. You can’t paint it because unless you use a sprayer, you’ll never get paint between the peaks. It accumulates dust and reminds everyone that you last updated your walls when go-go boots were a thing.
You may have some of this thick texturing if you live in an older house or just acquired one. Popcorn ceilings were popular in the 1970s, but they are far easier to remove than wall texture. You can send it away, but you’ll never be able to remove all of the dust out of your house in your lifetime. Wetting and scraping may work on occasion, but the only tried and true procedure requires time and effort.
Grab your tool bag and go to work if you want smooth walls in your house.
1. Get Rid of the Peaks
The wall texture resembles a mountain range. There are peaks and troughs in it. To make your task as simple as possible, you need to eliminate as many peaks as feasible. Scrape up and down and back and forth with moderate pressure, striking the same region multiple times. If you have sharp paint scraper blades, this work becomes a thousand times simpler. Before you start, get some fresh blades.
This step will leave a thin layer of tiny texture chips on the floor. These chips, unlike dust, are readily cleaned up if sanded. Despite the fact that the residue is not very fine, I suggest using a respirator.
2. Get the wall covering ready
When you utilize the mud at maximum intensity, it is much more difficult and exhausting. Fill a second bucket halfway with mud; mixing will be much simpler and less messy this way.
Slowly pour in a quarter cup of water at a time, mixing using a mixing paddle on a portable drill. You’re looking for a yogurt-like consistency. It must be as thin as possible while being adherent to your taping knife. To modify, add more water or full-strength mud from the initial bucket.
3. Take a section of the wall and cover it
After you’ve completed a few short portions to get a feel for it, strive to complete a quarter of a wall at a time. Spread a layer on the wall with the medium size taping knife; be liberal. Switch to the big taping knife and smooth out the mixture by drawing straight down as far as possible, beginning at the top and angling the knife at 45 degrees.
Stop every sweep and scrape the extra mixture off the bigger taping knife and into the bucket using the smaller taping knife. Make another pass after the first one, being particularly clean on these passes. You’ll have to sand out every ridge you left on the wall.
4. Eliminate the Boogers
Boogers are flecks of mud that slid off your taping knife and dried on the wall before you realized it. Boogers are also spots where there was a minor buildup of drywall mud for whatever reason. Scrape them off with the dry medium taping knife.
5. Finish with a Second Coat
This is the part that you despise. I dislike doing things twice, but when it comes to texturing, you really don’t have a choice. For a second coat, repeat the procedure.
6. Make minor adjustments
You could need a third layer if you didn’t do a good job scraping the texture peaks off. Two applications are usually sufficient to cover the whole surface. Despite this, certain valleys will have spaces in the wall that resemble pinpricks. Apply a third layer of the same mixture to the areas with these or other defects.
7. Additional Boogers
Remove any fresh boogers.
8. Remove sand from ridges and other flaws
Nobody gets by without making ridges in their mud coats; the only issue is how many you make. Sand the area flat using a coarse sanding sponge and medium pressure. To mix in your work, go over it again with a fine sanding brush.
9. Clean Up Sanding Dust
There will be some drywall dust created during sanding. Wipe it away using a sticky cloth. Painting defects may be caused by dust on the wall.
10. Select a Color
The wall is now ready to be painted. While you don’t have to use the finest paint on the market, a good one-coat paint will make your painting task easier.